From the Notebooks

information

Fiber Friday: Wool

Cozy Mainer BlanketsCarla here! Let’s talk about wool.

Wool is a miracle fiber. Seriously… sure, there are all these fancy technical fibers now that do magical things, but wool offers a ton of fantastic features all in one fiber! A wool blanket on a bed offers warmth and weight as well as breathability. A wool sweater can keep you just warm enough either walking through the parking lot in January or sitting at your desk in the over-enthusiastic AC in July. It’s odor-resistant and bacteria-resistant! The structure of the fiber keeps it cleaner longer. It absorbs moisture away from your skin. It breathes! I’ve worn wool in intense heat and humidity and been more comfortable than I would have been in cotton.
sheep in field
Sheep, the orange cats of wool producers, come in many, many different breeds and each of their coats provide slightly or massively different wool types, but that’s a discussion for another day. For now, it’s good to know that wool is sheared from the sheep regularly, usually with clippers that look like beard trimmers on steroids. Sheep need to be sheared because, thanks to ages of selective breeding, they do not shed naturally. (In fact, it’s sad if they aren’t groomed for years. Shearing prevents overheating, parasites, blindness and mobility issues. We humans created these freaks who don’t shed, so we need to keep them comfortable and healthy.) Shearing doesn’t hurt sheep. They become accustomed to the practice as lambs and tolerate it just fine. Some spunkier ones might have days when they’re spicy, but a good shearer can keep them safe and comfortable.

sheep with black facePersonally, I adore wool. We wear wool socks and I keep a wool blanket or two on my bed year round. Why? Wool offers insulation. Wool not only keeps you warmer in colder weather, but it’ll keep you comfortably cooler in hot weather. The tiny air pockets created by the crimp in the fiber offer the insulating buffer for temperature regulation. And it breathes! Wool is hygroscopic – it absorbs moisture (including sweat) and wick it away from your body, leaving you more comfortable. In fact, it can absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp. And while the core of the fiber is absorbing that water vapor, the scales create a hydrophobic surface that can make liquid to bead up and roll off the surface.

Warm Mainer BlanketThen there are the more boring features. It’s elastic and very resilient and durable. Individual fibers can stretch 20-50% which allows spun fibers some give in a final product, preventing wear and damage. Its durability is further supported by the scaly structure of the fiber which offers high tensile strength (the maximum stress a fiber can withstand being stretched or pulled before it breaks).

cute sheepWool is also fire resistant. It has a very high ignition point (~1100° F or ~600° C) and does not melt or drip like a synthetic. In fact, if typically burns out on its own if there’s no other flame source (i.e. you’re not holding a match to it) because, to keep burning, it requires a higher concentration of oxygen than we have in our regular air. In fact, you can still get fire blankets made of wool.

Wool felts. This is a pro and a con. With heat, moisture and agitation (i.e. a washing machine), the scales on the individual fibers interlock with each other causing it to felt. This is great if you’re doing it on purpose, not so good if someone threw your favorite sweater in the wash on hot.

Caring for wool is not complicated. Many garments and wool blanckets need simply to be hung out in the sun on a windy or humid day. This allows the fibers to breathe and neutralizes odors. If you can do this with your wool sweaters, blankets or suits, they’ll last longer because you won’t have to launder them or dry clean them as often.

brown sheep with hornsSome wool, like superwash Merino, which you’ll often see available as sock yarn, is marketed as machine washable and dry-able. I’ve found that it depends on your detergent, water makeup, water temperature and dryer temperatures a great deal. I used to just throw my superwash wool socks in the washer and dryer with my t-shirts. No problem! However… I’ve moved to a different region (well water with tons of minerals), and switched washing machines and detergents. The result? Socks that used to be fine to wash and dry started to felt a bit. Now I wash them more gently (cool water, still in my washer though) and put them on a rack to air dry. Machine washing superwash wool is definitely an art and your mileage may vary (YMMV).

Warm Mainer BlanketWe offer a variety of wool blankets and throws in the Etsy Store. We suggest having these blankets dry cleaned for best results. You could wash them gently in a tub, for sure, but here’s the handiest thing about wool: it’s odor-resistant and bacteria-resistant. Lanolin, a naturally occurring waxy substance, provides a protective barrier that reduces bacterial buildup. The scales overlap like shingles that prevent dirt from easily getting deep into the fiber and fabric which means less laundering is necessary in general!

Cozy Mainer BlanketsHowever, beware of wool moths! You might remember that during the Pandemic folks weren’t wearing their wool much (because we were all sitting around in pajamas and sweats!) and a lot of folks ended up with moth damage in their favorite and/or expensive items. Moths love laying eggs on your woolens and the eggs hatch when temperatures are above 70° F. To avoid damage from wool moths, shake out your woolens throughly (perhaps air them out in the sun too!) and store them in airtight plastic containers or bags. You can also use cedar or lavender or any number of herbal combinations to repel them. Freezing woolens for 72 hours should destroy the eggs, but I always shake and air out things after freezing. If you can’t store them in airtight containers, shake them out often when you’re not wearing them regularly. Bags that comforters or sheet sets come in are helpful in a pinch, even if they’re not airtight, as they’ll keep most moths out so they can’t lay eggs on your blanket.

Lots of sheep in different colors

tying on the warp for a new color
etsy, weaving

Chef Towels off and on the loom

“I feel good when I’m weaving,” says Rachael when I remind her that the Etsy stuff is supposed to be fun not an all-out push to get stuff done.

Whipping things off the loom…

The chef towels are a popular item on the Etsy store so Rachael put them back on the loom to make some more and use up colors.

The video here is a quick clip of the blue chef towels coming off the loom, because it’s kind of fun!

Unusual things occupy your childhood memories when you grow up in a weaver’s home… a repeating theme turns out to be your mother hauling yards and yards and yards of fabric off a loom (and not letting you help because you’re like 4 years old and this fabric is for a client and thus not to be messed up).

Changing warp colors, the easy way

tying on the warp for a new color

The process of changing over the color without having to re-warp the entire loom is pretty simple but still rather awesome. When I got to her studio yesterday, Rachael had finished 15 blue chef towels and was already tying on a new color. She had already tied the new green warp to the ends of the blue warp and had moved on to tying on the white ends.

from the back of the loom

This is a shot from the back of the loom and the end of warp. The warp is tied onto the rod you see in the bottom of the picture, then threaded through the heddles on the harnesses and finally through the reed on the beater. The masking tape you see across the threads helps keep it tamed. When all the new warp threads are tied on, she’ll wind the length of the new warp onto the back beam of the loom so she can start weaving again.

From the front again, she ties knots really quickly, which is unsurprising. Just under and behind the white warp threads, you can see the blue chef towels that have already been woven, hanging out on the front beam. These are the towels that got taken off the loom in the video above! 

the warp being tied on

Here you can see some of the length of the warp coming off the loom. Rachael is putting on enough warp for another 12+ green chef towels. It’s carefully prepared so that it keeps from tangling both before and during the warping process.

the rest of the warp, pooling on the floor

Here’s some more of that warp. Once all the ends are tied, Rachel will go to the back of the loom and carefully wind the warp onto the back beam. The entire length has to pass through the reed and heddles to get onto the back beam to be ready to weave. 

The green part of the warp is ready too, hanging out in its own bucket with the waiting green shuttles. 

etsy

And then there were scarves…

Lots and lots of chenille scarves! 

Now available on Etsy!

 

 

Creativity

Rachael believes that scarves are like snowflakes: no two are alike. And she takes this very seriously when she weaves. We photographed and posted 51 chenille scarves this week and there are only 7 pairs of matching scarves. 

Color play

Not only are many of the patterns of weave different in these scarves, the color variations are amazing. In fact, I (Carla) just accepted that most of the scarves needed to be listed individually because they were each so unique! 

Coziness

Chenille is one of my materials because it makes for a very versatile scarf that is still cozy and soft. The sheen, the silky texture, the colors… and this chenille is especially wonderful because it doesn’t shed. They’re comfortably cozy! 

 

 

Yes. We used little yellow notes to number the scarves as we photographed them. Trust me. It was necessary to keep them straight. The last thing we’d want to do is have you order the perfect scarf then accidentally ship the wrong scarf! That would be tragic!!!

weaving

Overshot and Double Chariot Wheels

 

Overshot is a traditional American weave that evolved mostly in New England. It uses 2 (or more) different types of weft yarns (the horizontal yarns) and floats create a pattern. Floats are simply weft yarns that float over top of the warp yarns to create a pattern on one side of the fabric. The Double Chariot Wheel overshot pattern can be documented back to the first half of the 1800s. Overshot is typically woven on 4 harnesses. 

First, don’t let “just 4 harnesses” or the age of the Double Chariot Wheel pattern lull you into thinking overshot is simple or boring. The family of overshot patterns is enormous and the variations are practically infinite. Their names range from Double Chariot Wheel to Blooming Leaf of Mexico and Maltese Cross and all are created with just 4 harnesses. Overshot was a way for 19th century weavers to express their creativity in a beautiful way while still producing durable and functional items. 

So how does the weaver actually do this? Overshot is woven on 4 harnesses. In the video, the harnesses are what lift the white warp threads so that the weaver can throw the shuttle through with the weft yarns. Each harness is threaded with different warp threads. Looms are fun machines because then you can lift different combinations of harnesses to get different patterns. The more harnesses you have available, the more combinations you can create and the more complex your weave will be.

Now, let’s lift the harnesses! If you look in the photo above, at the bottom of the loom you’ll see long sticks, they’re called treadles and they’re essentially pedals the weaver pushes down with her feet to make the harnesses go up and down. These treadles can be hooked to one or more harnesses and each harness may have more than one treadle that lifts it in combination with other harnesses depending on the weave’s pattern. 

treadle chart for double chariot wheelEach weave pattern has a specific treadle pattern that the weaver performs. Here you’ll see one of Rachael’s treadle charts for Double Chariot Wheel, complete with notes that I still can’t read 100% of despite my 40-something years of exposure to her handwriting. There are, however, repeats noted as well as edges and the center part of the pattern. Once she reaches the bottom of the treadle chart, she works her way back up to finish the other end of the piece. The number of repeats of each section determines the length of the piece, whether it’s short like a placement or longer like a table runner. Also noted here is “417 ends”: which is to say 417 of the white warp threads are on the loom, threaded through specific harnesses, to produce this pattern. Trust me, this is not a big number compared to some of Rachael’s other work. 

weaving double chariot wheel overshotOne of my favorite things about overshot is that it’s reversible. We’ve tried to catch both sides of each overshot piece in the photos for the shop for this reason. You can flip a runner or placemat when it gets a little dirty and use the other side and no one will know! You can also alternate the contrasting sides of the placemats when you set your holiday table for a beautiful effect. It’s also a good way to distinguish my placemat from my daughter’s at the table. And sometimes? I just like the lighter side better than the darker side… 

On Etsy we have both Double Chariot Wheel placemats and Double Chariot wheel runners available (at least at the time of this post!).

information

Getting things up and running!

double chariot wheel overshot placement in beige
Double Chariot Wheel Overshot Placement

Finally!

R. Hixon E. as a brand of high-quality handwovens and other artisan items has been around for decades.

I, Carla Emmons, have been trying to convince my mother, Rachael H. Emmons, to get her handwoven items online and for sale since, approximately, the advent of the world wide web as a viable commerce platform.

Now that we are in the same state and both have a bit of spare time to actually work on things, learn things and generally be fussy with technology, we’re starting to populate Etsy with items currently available.

(Also, I reserve the right to use as many exclamation points as I see fit!) 

Mailing list signup!


Gratuitous Etsy Link!

After some extensive taking of inventory and a whirlwind session of photography, we’ve finally put up the first few items on Etsy. There are many, many more items to come because the initial inventory (which went considerably faster than anticipated, quite frankly) included over 800 items.

And Rachael hasn’t actually stopped weaving, so… there will be more.