tying on the warp for a new color
etsy, weaving

Chef Towels off and on the loom

“I feel good when I’m weaving,” says Rachael when I remind her that the Etsy stuff is supposed to be fun not an all-out push to get stuff done.

Whipping things off the loom…

The chef towels are a popular item on the Etsy store so Rachael put them back on the loom to make some more and use up colors.

The video here is a quick clip of the blue chef towels coming off the loom, because it’s kind of fun!

Unusual things occupy your childhood memories when you grow up in a weaver’s home… a repeating theme turns out to be your mother hauling yards and yards and yards of fabric off a loom (and not letting you help because you’re like 4 years old and this fabric is for a client and thus not to be messed up).

Changing warp colors, the easy way

tying on the warp for a new color

The process of changing over the color without having to re-warp the entire loom is pretty simple but still rather awesome. When I got to her studio yesterday, Rachael had finished 15 blue chef towels and was already tying on a new color. She had already tied the new green warp to the ends of the blue warp and had moved on to tying on the white ends.

from the back of the loom

This is a shot from the back of the loom and the end of warp. The warp is tied onto the rod you see in the bottom of the picture, then threaded through the heddles on the harnesses and finally through the reed on the beater. The masking tape you see across the threads helps keep it tamed. When all the new warp threads are tied on, she’ll wind the length of the new warp onto the back beam of the loom so she can start weaving again.

From the front again, she ties knots really quickly, which is unsurprising. Just under and behind the white warp threads, you can see the blue chef towels that have already been woven, hanging out on the front beam. These are the towels that got taken off the loom in the video above! 

the warp being tied on

Here you can see some of the length of the warp coming off the loom. Rachael is putting on enough warp for another 12+ green chef towels. It’s carefully prepared so that it keeps from tangling both before and during the warping process.

the rest of the warp, pooling on the floor

Here’s some more of that warp. Once all the ends are tied, Rachel will go to the back of the loom and carefully wind the warp onto the back beam. The entire length has to pass through the reed and heddles to get onto the back beam to be ready to weave. 

The green part of the warp is ready too, hanging out in its own bucket with the waiting green shuttles. 

weaving

Overshot and Double Chariot Wheels

 

Overshot is a traditional American weave that evolved mostly in New England. It uses 2 (or more) different types of weft yarns (the horizontal yarns) and floats create a pattern. Floats are simply weft yarns that float over top of the warp yarns to create a pattern on one side of the fabric. The Double Chariot Wheel overshot pattern can be documented back to the first half of the 1800s. Overshot is typically woven on 4 harnesses. 

First, don’t let “just 4 harnesses” or the age of the Double Chariot Wheel pattern lull you into thinking overshot is simple or boring. The family of overshot patterns is enormous and the variations are practically infinite. Their names range from Double Chariot Wheel to Blooming Leaf of Mexico and Maltese Cross and all are created with just 4 harnesses. Overshot was a way for 19th century weavers to express their creativity in a beautiful way while still producing durable and functional items. 

So how does the weaver actually do this? Overshot is woven on 4 harnesses. In the video, the harnesses are what lift the white warp threads so that the weaver can throw the shuttle through with the weft yarns. Each harness is threaded with different warp threads. Looms are fun machines because then you can lift different combinations of harnesses to get different patterns. The more harnesses you have available, the more combinations you can create and the more complex your weave will be.

Now, let’s lift the harnesses! If you look in the photo above, at the bottom of the loom you’ll see long sticks, they’re called treadles and they’re essentially pedals the weaver pushes down with her feet to make the harnesses go up and down. These treadles can be hooked to one or more harnesses and each harness may have more than one treadle that lifts it in combination with other harnesses depending on the weave’s pattern. 

treadle chart for double chariot wheelEach weave pattern has a specific treadle pattern that the weaver performs. Here you’ll see one of Rachael’s treadle charts for Double Chariot Wheel, complete with notes that I still can’t read 100% of despite my 40-something years of exposure to her handwriting. There are, however, repeats noted as well as edges and the center part of the pattern. Once she reaches the bottom of the treadle chart, she works her way back up to finish the other end of the piece. The number of repeats of each section determines the length of the piece, whether it’s short like a placement or longer like a table runner. Also noted here is “417 ends”: which is to say 417 of the white warp threads are on the loom, threaded through specific harnesses, to produce this pattern. Trust me, this is not a big number compared to some of Rachael’s other work. 

weaving double chariot wheel overshotOne of my favorite things about overshot is that it’s reversible. We’ve tried to catch both sides of each overshot piece in the photos for the shop for this reason. You can flip a runner or placemat when it gets a little dirty and use the other side and no one will know! You can also alternate the contrasting sides of the placemats when you set your holiday table for a beautiful effect. It’s also a good way to distinguish my placemat from my daughter’s at the table. And sometimes? I just like the lighter side better than the darker side… 

On Etsy we have both Double Chariot Wheel placemats and Double Chariot wheel runners available (at least at the time of this post!).